Amelia on Airbrush Makeup

I get requests all the time for airbrush makeup. So let's talk about it. I have experience in both traditional and airbrush makeup techniques, so let's take an assessment and see which one suits you.

Let's start with understanding exactly what airbrush makeup is: a thin, lightweight product that is applied thru a spray gun. It can be water based, silicone based, or sometimes a combination. Major lines that carry it are Temptu, MAC, and Kett, amongst others. Dior even has it's own makeup-in-a-can line that mimics an airbrush technique.

And none of this makes it better than any traditional foundation. There is quite a bit of confusion surrounding airbrush makeup, including some well-sold circulated myths.

Myth 1: Airbrush makeup will make me look flawless.

Sure it will... if you are already flawless. Airbrush makeup is not designed for: skin with fine lines, acne, discoloration, dark under eyes, or freckles. The same rules still apply when working with specific skin concerns. If you have fine lines, the drying effects of airbrush makeup can really make those suckers stand out, because the makeup never really works into the skin. If you have acne or dark circles, the same basic concept of concealer before foundation applies just the same as it does with traditional foundation. You will still need to provide some sort of area-specific coverage with a creamier and denser makeup before you airbrush on top of it, so it's really kudo's to the concealer that your getting flawless skin. But, if your a model with perfect skin who needs just a mist over for a photo shoot, then airbrush makeup's a great way to go.

Myth 2: Airbrush makeup will stay put all day long.
Well...kinda. If you don't get it wet. True, mild dry-rubbing (brushing up against something, gentle hugging, ect) will not budge the makeup. But... if it gets too wet, it can streak, and now you have a real problem on your hands. Because airbrush makeup dries so well, it has no blendable properties. This is so much of a problem that some airbrush makeup artists will actually do their eye makeup work first before they apply foundation, so that they can clean up any mess under the eyes and therefore not have to fix the finicky foundation after the fact.

(side note: First time I ever saw airbrush makeup, I was headed to a wedding with another makeup artist. We stepped out into the sunlight and it was so weird... it looked like her skin had been splattered with something, I cannot even describe it. Apparently she decided to airbrush her foundation that day and it somehow got splashed. So weird.)

Myth 3: Airbrush makeup will feel nice and light, better than traditional foundations.

A great makeup artist has worked with and is good at traditional foundation. Even my makeup artist friends who use airbrush still know how to use a traditional foundation, and are great at it. If you've had that horrible, heavy, carve-your-name-in-my-foundation kind of makeup, your experience had alot more to do with you artist than the medium. One of the greatest makeup artist I know managed to get a bride ready at the last minute with products from Wal-Mart. THAT is a GREAT makeup artist. Major props to her. I'm not saying that drugstore makeup is the way to go... if she had her own kit with her at the time I'm quite sure that would have been her preference. I'm just using that situation as an example of how much more the artists talent matters than the tools she uses. The tools we makeup artists choose to use are more of a personal preference, but they certainly don't make the artist. And having worn airbrush makeup myself, I can assure you there's a penalty you pay for wearing a dry foundation: it feels like a tight mask. Kinda like how your face feels after a good wash but before you moisturize.

So what's the deal? If airbrush makeup is in fact NOT the greatest thing since sliced bread, what gives? How'd it get so popular? This is why-





Which photo of Gale is airbrushed? The second one, of course. But it's not makeup. Airbrushing is a casual term that refers to a Photoshop technique that creates flawless, luminous, perfect skin. So when you see a beautiful, amazing model with not one blemish and they say she's airbrushed, this is what they are referring to. It most certainly is not a product of her makeup. Makeup can do lot's of things, but this immaculate smoothness doesn't come from a can or a brush or a machine. It comes from your friendly neighbor graphic designer.

Make no mistake, this particular blog entry doesn't shed too much favorable light on airbrush makeup. I figure you probably have heard all the wonderful things about it and I would just be repeating others of I listed the good attributes. And I am not saying that airbrush makeup doesn't have it's time and purpose, I have alot of respect for some artists who happen to use it and in some situations airbrush makeup can be the best solution. But as of right here, right now, I prefer to use a universally adaptable technique with skill and precision rather than a hit-and-miss technique that still has to be supplemented by my original methods. Call me crazy.